When I found out my sister-in-law was pregnant I knew I had to crochet something special. Matt not-so-subtly asked if they were planning on finding out if they were having a boy or a girl. They weren't, but my sister-in-law told me she likes the colour green.
With that in mind I started thinking about possible blanket options. Last year I crocheted a pink, purple and white chevron baby blanket for a friend. It was a beautiful blanket and I would love to create another one like it at some point, but for this blanket pink and purple weren't really what I wanted to go with. I still loved the chevron look though.
One of my favourite blogs to read belongs to Lucy of Attic24. This year I started her Cupcake Blanket, and fell in love with Stylecraft Special DK yarn, a beautifully soft acrylic yarn. But back on track, Lucy also has a really helpful pattern for a chevron blanket, which I hadn't yet found when I made my last chevron blanket, it's called the Neat Ripple. I was particularly looking at her Coast Ripple blanket which can be ordered in a Stylecraft Special DK yarn pack from Wool Warehouse in the UK, which I've had excellent experiences with so far - my most recent order arrived within 9 business days from the UK to Australia!
The Coast Ripple is a great set of colours, but for this blanket I wanted a few less browns and greys, and a few more shades of green. So between my current yarn stash and a couple of trips to Spotlight I selected my colours in 4 Seasons Marvel 8ply 100% acrylic yarn. In retrospect I wish I had ordered Stylecraft Special DK instead, as it just has a little bit of a nicer feel to it. I'm still quite happy with the blanket, but it sits a little less softly than some of my other blankets (although I think it should soften up with washing and some use). Another option is I could have bought some baby yarn, but there are not as many colour options.
So many beautiful blues and greens! I was very excited about my plan. I chose these twelve colours, assigned each a number and then I used a random number generator. I told it I had numbers 1 to 12 and asked it to put them in a random order. I did that about six times to create the complete stripe order for the blanket because I wanted a random stripe order but don't like making decisions. I did edit the order a little when there were two stripes of the same colour too close to each other at the beginnings and ends of the repeat.
In this image above you can see the numbers assigned to each colour, as well as the assigned colour order. But I got to this point in the blanket and I wasn't completely loving all the colours together. It may have looked nice at the end if I had pushed on with it, but the motivation for this plan fizzled out. I did discover something useful though - I really love shades of turquoise, mint and green.
Just look at those GORGEOUS stripes! Oh man! I fell in love with these five little stripes here, so from here is where I started my new plan.
Stephanie of AllAboutAmi shared her pattern for a Bold and Bright Chevron Baby Blanket, along with her process of designing it. I have designed a pattern as an addition to her pattern, so make sure you check out her blog if you'd like to give this a go!
Stephanie recommends having an odd number of peaks, but I liked the size that six peaks gave me, so that's what I went with. I started with a chain of 219 to give me six peaks.
As you can see in Stephanie's photos that include her lovely daughter, the peaks of this blanket may not lay flat. Stephanie linked to a pattern to make triangles to fill in the gaps and make it lay flatter and square it off. But I to work out a pattern of my own!
My pattern has different triangles for each end of the blanket, one set for the beginning end and one set for the finishing end. The triangles on the finishing end are worked directly onto the blanket. The triangles on the beginning end are worked separately and then sewn on, or you could try making them first and building the rest of the blanket on top of them!
Key terms and notes:
ss: slip stitch
YO: yarn over
dc: double crochet (YO, insert hook into stitch, YO, draw up a loop, YO, pull through first two loops on hook, YO, pull through final two loops on hook)
ch2 at the beginning of the row counts as a stitch.
Number in brackets denotes number of stitches in row, including chains in the space.
Please note, Stephanie uses chain 3 at the start of each row in her pattern, but I personally prefer to use chain 2 when working with double crochets. It is up to your own personal preference.
With these triangles I made an effort to crochet so that each row was worked in the opposite direction to the previous row for consistency throughout the blanket and to create a seamless effect between the main body of the blanket and the triangles.
I used 4 Seasons Marvel 8ply with a 4mm hook.
Triangle Pattern for beginning end of blanket
(in my blanket this is the green end)
Row 1: ch4, ss in first chain to form a circle.
Row 2: ch2, 4dc, ch1, 5dc. (11)
Row 3: ch2, turn, dc in first stitch, 4dc, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1-space, 4dc, 2dc in top of chain. (17)
Row 4: ch2, turn, dc in first stitch, 7dc, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1-space, 7dc, 2dc in top of chain. (23)
Row 5: ch2, turn, dc in first stitch, 10dc, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1-space, 10dc, 2dc in top of chain. (29)
Row 6: ch2, turn, dc in first stitch, 13dc, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in ch1-space, 13dc, 2dc in top of chain. (35)
Cut yarn leaving a long tail to weave in.
Sew triangles into triangular spaces. Weave in yarn ends back and forth through a few rows to secure them.
Triangle pattern for finishing end of blanket
(in my blanket this is the white end)
This triangle is based on the following special stitches Stephanie uses in her blanket. Scroll down to after the pattern for some photos.
Stephanie's special stitches:
Beginning 3-Stitch Decrease: Chain 2, turn. *YO, insert hook in next dc, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook. Repeat from * once more, YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook (counts as one dc).
5-Stitch Decrease: *YO, insert hook in next dc, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * 4 times more, YO and draw through all 6 loops on hook (counts as one dc).
3-Stitch End Decrease: *YO, insert hook in next dc, YO and pull up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * 2 times more, YO and draw through all 4 loops on hook (counts as one dc).
Row 1: Insert hook into first stitch after chain space. Pull up a loop, Beginning 3-stitch decrease, 12dc, 5-stitch decrease, 12dc, 3-stitch end decrease (27)
Row 2: Beginning 3-stitch decrease, 8dc, 5-stitch decrease, 8dc, 3-stitch end decrease (19)
Row 3: Beginning 3-stitch decrease, 4dc, 5-stitch decrease, 4dc, 3-stitch end decrease (11)
Row 4: Beginning 3-stitch decrease, 5-stitch decrease, 3-stitch end decrease (3)
Cut yarn and weave in tail back and forth through a few rows to secure.
Photos to demonstrate
Here I am about to start working a triangle into the space to the left of my hook. For consistency throughout the blanket, I want the row I'm starting here to be worked in the opposite direction to the previous row. I have inserted my hook in the stitch to the left of the chain-1 space at the peak. If you crochet left handed you will work insert your hook in the stitch to the right of the chain-1 space, and work your triangle in the space to the right of the peak.
In the image below I have started my row with the Beginning 3-stitch decrease, as described above. you can see furthest to the right on my hook is my 2 chain, then two incomplete double crochets. To complete this stitch yarn over and draw through all loops on hook. Then proceed with 12 double crochets in the next 12 stitches. Do a 5-stitch decrease at the valley the same as for the rest of Stephanie's blanket.
In the following photo I have completed 12dc, and in the final three stitches before the chain-1 space I am working a 3-stitch end decrease. After this work the next row in the opposite direction.
Altered triangles for blanket edges
One of these side triangles will need to start from the top of the peak, and the other from the side of the blanket in a valley depending on which direction you've worked the previous row in. The triangle that sits on top of the end where you finished the blanket will be started in the final stitch of the blanket, the triangle on the opposite side will be started at the peak, in the stitch next to the chain-1 space.
Row 1: Insert hook either into stitch after chain space OR into the top of final stitch in previous row. Beginning 3-stitch decrease, 12dc, 3-stitch end decrease (14)
Row 2: Beginning 3-stitch decrease, 8dc, 3-stitch end decrease (10)
Row 3: Beginning 3-stitch decrease, 4dc, 3-stitch end decrease (6)
Row 4: Beginning 3-stitch decrease, 3-stitch end decrease (2)
Cut yarn and weave in tail back and worth through a few rows to secure it.
Photos to demonstrate
Below is the triangle that sits on top of the final stitches of the main body of the blanket, so I started with a 3-stitch beginning decrease in the final stitch.
In the photo on the left is the start of the third row, I have nearly completed the 3-stitch beginning decrease, just a yarn over, pull through all loops on hook. Then 4 double crochets followed by the 3-stitch end decrease in the final three stitches, as shown in the photo on the right.
The final row is made up of just a 3-stitch beginning decrease and a 3-stitch end decrease. Here I have just completed the final stitch. After this you'll want to cut the yarn leaving a long tail to weave back and forth through a few rows to secure it.
If you want to crochet Stephanie's blanket with more or less double crochets to make the spaces between the peaks larger or smaller, you'll also need to adjust my part of the pattern accordingly to fit in.
Here's some shots of the finished blanket we gifted to our new little nephew!
Please note this pattern is based heavily on, and designed specifically for, Stephanie Lau's pattern for Bold & Bright Chevron Baby Blanket. I publish the patterns for these triangles based on this blanket with her permission.